Cantucci con Vin Santo

Have you ever heard of the Italian Cantucci con Vin Santo? Despite interest in food, before moving to Florence, I certainly had not! My first experience with this delicacy was with my family at a restaurant in Pisa. Seeing it on the dessert menu, we inquired about what it was and were intrigued by the description.

With broken English, the waitress replied, “they are cookies, and you dip them in wine.” This piqued our interest enough to try them out, and we were not disappointed. As she came back to the table, we were greeted by a plate of dry, oblong-shaped cookies, flavored with almonds. Seeing them, they looked familiar, fitting what I have always known as biscotti. Slightly confused and full of fascination, I took the first cookie and submerged half of it in the small glass of copper-colored wine that accompanied the plate. My next surprise came at the consistency of the Vin Santo. It was thick, almost syrupy. After a full minute or two in the wine, the dry Cantucci was finally soft enough to enjoy. What filled my mouth next was a captivating explosion of flavor. The sweet and crumbly cookie, combined with the warmth of strong alcohol and salty almonds. It was a delicious treat I would never forget.

Cantucci or Biscotti?

As I mentioned, at my first sight of Cantucci, I initially associated it with Biscotti, the dry Italian cookie I have come to appreciate around Christmastime. As an American, it is a common mistake to make and I have seen many others think the same. The difference between these two can be confusing, as it purely cultural! In Italy, Biscotti is the generic word used for all cookies. It means “twice-cooked”, which originates from the cookies in the Roman Empire. During this time, cookies were cooked twice to draw out all the moisture, making them last longer before spoiling. Over time, the word has become a generic one and can refer to all kinds of cookies. What Americans would call “biscotti” is what Tuscans call Cantucci. The word Cantucci comes from the Latin “cantellus” (meaning “piece” or “slice”), referring to how they are made with one large loaf cut into smaller cookies (they are then cooked twice, so the name biscotti fits as well!).

While in America, it is common to dip biscotti into coffee or tea, Tuscans appreciate their Cantucci with a small glass of Vin Santo, a sweet dessert wine with its own beautiful history and tradition.

What is Vin Santo?

While Cantucci may be familiar to many Americans under a different name, Vin Santo may be more foreign! As mentioned previously, Vin Santo is a thick, sweet-wine popular in Tuscany paired with both sweet and savory foods.

Vin Santo is made with hand-picked grapes that are left on the vine until they are ripe or overripe. These grapes are then left to “raisinate”, or dry out, although not left long enough to reach the point of becoming raisins. As the grape dry for several months, the sugars within deepen and concentrate. The wine is then produced and fermented, but unlike most wines, it is left to ferment in open containers, allowing oxidation. While oxidation is typically an enemy in good wine production, in this case it is desired to add dryness to Vin Santo. With the concentrated sugars and dryness from oxidation, the end result is a deliciously balanced wine with the potential of sweet or savory pairings.

Holy Wine

Vin Santo has many legends that accompany it, as the name itself means “holy wine.” Some say Vin Santo acquired its name after being used in local church masses.

The most probably theory of Vin Santo’s title is the drying period of the grapes. The grapes are picked in early November, near the national Italian holiday of All Saints Day. They are then dried over winter until late March or early April, around Easter. The wine production is sandwiched between two holy days on the Christian calendar, giving the wine its “holy” title!

Others have a more historical take, claiming the name originated during the time of the Black Death. According to legend, this wine was given to those sick with the plague by a Franciscan priest and they were cured. A final story about the wine is that of a Greek priest who was at the Council of Florence in 1439. While he was drinking this wine, he described it as Xanthos (meaning yellow) because of its deep, amber color. Xanthos was misheard for Santo and the name gained popularity as a sign of the “saintly powers” of the wine!

All of these stories and more add to the allure of Vin Santo and provide good table conversation while you enjoy a glass!

The Symbol of Tuscan Hospitality

Throughout Florence and the Tuscan region, one can find Cantucci with Vin Santo on the menu of most Osterias and Trattorias. Nevertheless, as with any specialty, not all provide the same quality! Often, the shortcuts come in the Vin Santo. Instead of receive a glass of good-quality, locally produced Vin Santo, large-batch, low-quality wine is served. Think of receiving a glass of cooking wine rather than a ‘Les Cras’ from Saint-Véran.

While my experience of Cantucci with Vin Santo has been at restaurants throughout Tuscany, to locals, this treat may have a different association. I have been told by Italians that this sweet treat is known as the “symbol of Tuscan hospitality.” The dry nature of these cookies means they can last and will always be ready to be enjoyed by impromptu visitors. I have heard descriptions of going to Nonna’s house and always finding a plate of Cantucci con Vin Santo. Both locals and tourists alike can enjoy a glass of Vin Santo and a plate of cookies, remembering the traditions, legends, and implications that this beautiful dish has today!

The Lure of Florence

How do you choose your next travel destination? Is it the closest beach spot? Maybe you hunt for food, culture, and history? Or do you have your place, that holds memories from years of vacations past? Whatever your personal taste, I believe most can see the attraction of Florence as a tourist destination. Named the best city in Europe in 2022 by Travel + Leisure, Florence has a wealth of discoveries to offer any visitor. The city with the most art per square foot in all the world, here you can find Michelangelo’s David, the Pieta, the Birth of Venus, and countless other masterpieces. Nestled in the fertile Tuscan hills, Florence is renowned for incredible wine and food traditions echoing back centuries. And one cannot forget the city’s beauty and architectural wonders, including what is arguably the greatest structure ever built: Brunelleschi’s Dome on Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral.

Despite the pandemic, tourism in Florence is only growing with more visitors coming than ever before. Being here for a longer period, I get to observe the streets filled at any time of day or night, lines lingering outside gelato shops no matter the weather, and famous sites such as the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio packed shoulder to shoulder. While this can be frustrating at times (especially when I’m late to class!), there is also beauty in it. Watching someone’s jaw drop and eyes widen at the first sight of Brunelleschi’s masterpiece is an experience as beautiful as the dome itself. It never fails to remind me of the first time I saw the dome and felt changed by its wonder and beauty.

Even so, after months of observing tour groups and visitors, here today and gone tomorrow, one begins to wonder: how does this impact the place itself? What does tourism do to a location’s identity?

Tourism and Cultural Identity

Oftentimes, the economy is the first aspect brought up when discussing tourism. “Tourists spend money!” one might say. While the economic “advantages” are more nuanced than they appear on the surface, they are still prevalent. What is more interesting is how tourism impacts the society and culture of a place.

Firenze is a great place to observe this phenomenon as it is remarkably small in land mass and population. With only about 600,000 residents, the 14-15 million tourists that pass through each year definitely make their mark! And beyond that, the city is only about 40 square miles (for reference, 7.5 times smaller than NYC and 17 times smaller than London), condensing the visitors to one main area. Carlotta Viviani, Head of Economic Promotion and Tourism at the city of Florence, points out that,

“95% of the tourism flows are concentrated in 5km2. We want to keep our 14 million tourists per year, but spread them through the city and the region, so that more tourists can also get to know the rest of the region.”

Carlotta Vivani

With this level of tourism, is the identity of a place lost? Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar University recently put out an article that articulated it well, saying,

“All the resources that have attracted tourists in the beginning; the beauty of the landscape, peace and tranquility are continuously eroded by tourism development and the rapidly increasing pace of life. For this reason, the meaning of local culture might dilute and dissolve.”

Impact of Tourism, Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar University

At what point does the culture of the tourist become the “norm” over the host culture? I often ask myself this as an American in Florence. Without the effort of intentionality, one could experience Florence speaking only English, eating only American food, and meeting only American people! Depending on what your goal is in traveling, this can be comforting or discouraging. As someone who hopes to be acquainted with Florentine culture, it can be discouraging when the culture feels distant.

To put into perspective what I mean, I was chatting with a Florentine family I have become acquainted with about residency in Florence. They live outside the city center and were asking me where I lived. When I informed them, they replied by saying, “That’s a good area! It is the only area left of the city center where Italians live!” After this comment, we continued to discuss how in the center of the city, the vast majority, if not all houses and apartments are used for tourists and students: Florentines have been pushed out or chosen to leave because of the hustle and bustle of visitors in the city.

Tourism and Personal Identity

While the loss of cultural identity is a great danger, one of the most beautiful things about tourism is how it impacts the person traveling. Anyone with “the travel bug” can attest to how seeing new places, cultures, and people can transform you, from the inside out. Oftentimes, it can be such a great impact on our souls that it becomes a part of who we are as people. In the best-case scenario, the traveler will gain a broader perspective on the world and how others experience it, becoming a more empathetic, well-rounded, and kind individual.

Unfortunately, with widening globalization, a sort of “consumeristic tourism” has been observed. With travel becoming more and more accessible, tourists look more like consumers and destinations like products. We move so quickly from place to place (often only spending one or two days in cities like Florence, Rome, Venice, etc.) seeing “all there is to see” and leaving as quickly as we arrived. While there is nothing adamantly wrong with this style of travel, does it give you a true sense of the place? Beyond that, is it contributing well to the place itself? In the essay mentioned above (Impact of Tourism: Tourism: Economy; Environment; Society), the authors examine consumeristic travel and the dangers it poses on culture, the economy, society, and the environment. As someone who likes to travel, it is a good read to help us be more conscious of our choices.

What’s the point?

So what’s the point? Of course, I would never imply to have the definitive truth on tourism, its impact on society, and its impact specifically on Florence. But as an expat in this city, it has become a great point of interest and observance for me. I often ask myself how I, as a foreigner, intentionally adapt and yield to the culture here when it is easy to assert my own? How do I value being where I am rather than trying to “consume” other cities and destinations any chance I get? How do I give back to the community?

I never want anything I say to discourage you from visiting Florence, if anything, I hope to do the opposite! Florence is an amazing travel destination with so much to see and experience that it is truly worthwhile for any visitor. When you do visit, my hope is that you ask yourself what it means to be a conscious tourist amidst a sea of visitors. I hope you stay for longer than one, two, or three days and experience this city for more than just the big historic sites. And I hope that visiting, seeing, and experiencing transforms you as it has for me.

One could go so far as to say that nothing in Florence is “undiscovered.” A generally small city visited by millions of tourists per year (pre-covid numbers were showing over 11 million overnight stays a year). I am sure every restaurant, bar, and café has been seen, enjoyed, and written about. And yet, living in Florence, it is impossible to ignore the disparity in food establishments that crowd the city streets. Surrounding the notoriously touristy spots such as the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio, restaurants tend to cater more towards the American palate. Walking by menu boards advertising Pumpkin spiced lattes, “American breakfast”, burgers, and pizza topped with hot dogs (real menu item at Mister Pizza), it breaks the heart of any foodie to see crowds of visitors filling these tables while hidden gems remain untouched.

In one of the best food cities in the world, I want to highlight the establishments that only the lucky (or determined!) tourists come across. I hope to give attention to the places owned and frequented by locals, that bring character to the food and drink scene in the city! To start, we will explore two great cafés within the city center.

S.forno

With a simple and bold sign above the door reading PANEFICIO (meaning bakery), S.forno has mastered the art of drawing in a hungry passerby.

Even from outside the café, one is bound to be lured in by the smells and sounds that waft out the open doors. S.forno sits quietly across the river from the Duomo on a quaint side street, near Piazza Santo Spirito. It has been managed for seven years by the owners of Santo Bevitore (a popular restaurant and wine bar down the street) but the space has been an operating bakery for around 150 years. Serving up a combination of classic Italian and French style pastries and breakfast dishes, all with a twist of modern flare, S.forno truly has something to offer every customer.

And if cakes, pastries, and fresh bread aren’t tempting enough, they also offer a range of gourmet sauces, jarred delicacies, spices, chocolate, and other unique ingredients which cannot be found at a traditional grocers.

My first trip into S.forno was unintentional. Taking a walk through my neighborhood, the soft jazz, the smell of fresh bread, and the romantic atmosphere drew me in like a bee to a flower. Once inside, I was amazed by the delicacies that lay before me, both in the pastry case and on the shelves. In my visits since, I have enjoyed both sweet and savory pastries, coffee, and fresh juice.  

One note about S.forno that may come as a shock to many visitors is the drink selection. They do not have an espresso machine and therefore cannot offer the Italian espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, and other traditional favorites. Instead, they have hot tea and pot coffee at a self-service free-refill bar. Additionally, they have a small selection of specialty drinks (lattes, hot chocolate, fresh juice, etc.) As an expresso lover, this was a huge turn off initially! But as I have gone back, I have grown to appreciate the simplicity of the drink choices. Likewise, the option for free refills makes S.forno a great place to linger for hours, always topping up your drink when it gets low.

I can say in confidence that a trip to S.forno will not be a choice you regret! You will leave with a full stomach, delighted taste buds, and an experience worth sharing!

La Cité

Also located near the Piazza Santo Spirito, La Cité is a library café and bar, self-described as,

“a cultural island, the city within the city, a small but multipurpose space that would respond to our eclectic needs and to interact with the world near and far.”

Although selling food and drink, I would have to admit that the highlight of La Cité is the atmosphere. While achieving a cozy and warm environment, La Cité is also a uniquely eclectic and versatile space. If out for a night with friends, it is a great place to stop for a quick drink and play a round of chess at their upstairs game tables. To get your creative juices flowing, grab a book and a coffee and work at a desk. Or if you want the chance to catch up with an old friend, grab a seat on a couch and chat with live jazz in the background.

Whoever you are and whatever mood you are in, La Cité is a space to go and lose track of time. With great music, kind staff, and a perfect location, this café is another staple in the Santo Spirito area and will truly get you off the beaten path.